Hidden cenotes and colourful towns

This Yucatan self drive tour is likely to be the first leg of your trip around Mexico, and you'll spend the next five days travelling through the brilliant northern part of the Yucatan peninsula.

Unlike our shorter self drive Haciendas and Mayan pyramids, here you'll spend a night in the colonial town of Valladolid, a friendly spot where you can really take in the authentic Mexican atmosphere and visit some of the cenotes (underground lakes) in the area. The next day on your Yucatan self drive, you'll travel on to the famous ruins at Chichen Itza and then spend two nights in Izamal, nicknamed the yellow town. After this, you'll follow the 'Route Puuc', scattered with several small Mayan ruins, inland to Campeche. The ruins are less well-known but well worth a visit, and you might even have them all to yourself!

Duration	5 days/ 4 nights Departs daily from Playa del Carmen or Cancun	Accommodation	4 nights in double room with ensuite bathroom and a/c. Comfort level 3 (see accommodation)
Price	£110 per person - based on 2 people sharing	Includes	Accommodation (with breakfast included in Valladolid) and city tour of Izamal
Transport	Rental car	Excludes	Transport and other meals

Day 1: Playa del Carmen - Valladolid

At 10am, your rental car will be ready for you to begin your Yucatan self drive from Playa del Carmen. After some brief instructions and directions you'll set off on your way to Valladolid, roughly a 3-hour drive. Many consider this their first real taste of Mexico after leaving the Caribbean coast and it's easy to see why: the historic colonial town with 50,000 inhabitants has retained much of its authentic character and seems unfazed by its popularity. Instead of touristy souvenir shops and travel agents you'll find small shoemakers, book stores and barber shops with little Mexican ladies in traditional dress behind the counter.

Yucatan self drive - Streets of Valladolid

Yucatan self drive - Have lunch in style

You'll stay on the main plaza, a beautiful square with benches under shady trees. Once you've checked in, you can have some lunch on the patio and then wander into the historic centre. Behind the Franciscan cathedral, you'll find several districts with colourful houses. In the middle of the town, there's a 'cenote' - an underground clearwater lake formed by the erosion of the porous soil. There are several of these throughout Yucatan and you can swim in most of them. The most beautiful is Dzitnup, in a beautifully lit cave 15 minutes drive from Valladolid.

In the evening, you can head into the San Bernardino district with its atmospheric (car-free) streets which all lead to the San Bernardino Monastery. Just about every corner of the Calle 41 offers a good spot to enjoy a local beer and watch the world go by.

Driving distance on Day 1 of the Yucatan self drive: 3 hours including rest breaks.

Day 2: Valladolid - Chichèn Itzà - Izamal

You'll make an early start this morning to ensure you're at the entrance to Chichèn Itzà at 8am on the dot. Make sure you stock up on plenty of water - today is probably going to be hot and more than a little bit sweaty. You'll leave the hotel at 7.15am for the half-hour drive to Chichèn Itzà and park your car at the entrance. This means that you'll be ready to enter the complex when the gates open before the crowds and the heat arrive.

With its advanced infrastructure, Chichèn Itzà was far ahead of its time. The city is made up of temples, a ball court, a cenote, a tortoise house and several smaller buildings. The focal point of Chichèn is El Castillo (the castle), a temple dedicated to the god Kulkulkan. This nine-storey structure is a perfectly symmetrical pyramid, although climbing the temple is no longer allowed.

Driving distance: Approx 2½ hours (from Chichèn it's another 1½ hours drive to Izamal).

Day 3: Izamal

With just 20,000 inhabitants Izamal is a small town, but it has a very rich history. Izamal was once one of the greatest Mayan cities of its time until it was conquered by the Spanish conquistadors. The remains of the original buildings that can be found on the outskirts are mostly untouched and overgrown, which is why they are rarely visited by tourists and consequently Izamal has maintained its peaceful atmosphere. This is exactly why we decided to stay here for the night when we did this Yucatan self drive, and we loved it!

The best way to explore Izama is local-style by horse and carriage. We've arranged a tour for you through the romantic yellow painted streets. It's like riding through a film set.

Your horse and carriage will drop you off at the (yellow) monastery in the plaza. The monastery was built by Spanish monks on top of the original Mayan temples and the local inhabitants were converted to Catholicism. In 1993, Pope John Paul stayed in Izamal and visited the monastery which is ornately decorated with leaf gold, mosaics, stained-glass windows and crystal chandeliers. On 18th October and 8th December thousand of pilgrims gather here for the religious procession of Izamal to venerate the statue of the Virgin Mary.

Right outside the monastery is the local market where you can buy fresh fruit and delicious local snacks. Buy some food for on the way, then head back to the hotel to pick up your car for a drive through the surrounding countryside. There are several sisal factories around Izamal where the famous Mexican hammocks are made. If you want to buy one to take back home, you can be sure to get a good price and good quality hammock here. In the evening, the street lanterns in Izamal give a wonderful glow to the yellow buildings and the restaurants around the central plaza come alive.

Day 4: Izamal - Campeche

If you've fallen under the spell of the Mayans following your visit to Chichèn Itzà, you can head out early today and take the Puuc Route to Campeche. This relatively quiet and very fascinating road winds through several small Mayan cities, some old and deserted, others modern and lively.

After about 2 hours, you'll arrive at Uxmal (admission approx US$8). The site is on a par with Palenque and Chichèn Itzà. In fact, of all the ancient cities along the Puuc Route, we found Uxmal the most impressive. The great pyramid, the tortoise house and several smaller buildings are all ornately decorated with images of the rain god Chac (the crooked nose - you can't miss him).

The Yucatan self drive route then takes you first to Labna, where you'll need about 30 mins to visit the magnificent arch (admission approx US$2.50) and then to Kabah (plan about 30 mins, admission 27 pesos), with its Palace of Masks, a wall covered in nearly 300 masks of the rain god Chac with his large crooked nose. The supporting pillars at the back of the wall are made of carved male figures. The smaller settlements Sayil and Xlapak are close by but for the ruin aficionados only.

After Kabah, you'll continue for another 1½ hours to Edzna, roughly 60km (45 mins) from your final destination Campeche. Edzna is a great end to your Mayan day, and you can sit back and relax as the setting sun colours the great Five-Storey pyramid temple. At dusk you'll arrive in Campeche, a very laid back colonial town by the sea.

Driving distance: 9 hours including rest breaks at Uxmal, Labna, Kabah and Edzna.

Yucatan self drive - The eponymous Mexican VW Beetle

Day 5: Campeche - End of Yucatan self drive module

The module ends the next morning in Campeche. If you're spending two weeks travelling round Mexico then head on to Palenque (approx 6 hours drive) for a visit to Mexico's most impressive Mayan city.

If you've got some extra days to spare, then continue your trip to San Cristobal de las Casas.

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