Bathing with the pink flamingos

Refreshed and revived after a few days on the beach, you'll pick up your rental car in Playa del Carmen around 9am and set off on the road inland to start the Rio Lagartos tour. Once you're an hour or so out of Cancun, don't take the toll road to Merida but the 'Libre', a smaller but comfortable road through little Mayan villages and settlements. You're immediately confronted with Mexico's most menacing infrastructural feature, the 'tope' - basically a pretty big speed bump. You'll encounter at least one (wittingly or unwittingly) in every village that you pass through. After about two hours, you'll arrive in Valladolid, a picturesque Mexican colonial town where you can stop off for a coffee on the main plaza. From there, it's another hour north along a flat road to Rio Lagartos. You can park your car at the Restaurant Rio Lagartos directly on the water. You'll have time for some lunch (try the shrimp tortilla) before your boat trip.

Your little motorboat will be moored at the jetty in front of the restaurant. After lunch, kitted out with a lifevest, binoculars, a local guide and the all-important helmsman, you'll head out onto the water. Other visitors, that have booked a tour for that day may also join you (up to 6 people). The estuary, where the salt seawater mixes with the sweet river water, is rich in wildlife. Along the riverbanks you'll spot spoonbills, their flat pink beaks clearly visible in the undergrowth. In the distance, you'll also see bright pink swarms on the water - the swarms are in fact hundreds of flamingos standing in the water feeding on shrimp. Pelicans and ibises fly overhead and eagles peer at you from the treetops.

After an hour or so driving on the Rio Lagartos tour, you'll reach a small checkpoint. In 2002, hurricane Isidoro caused major damage to the wildlife here and the 20 pesos admission fee goes towards the conversation of the nature reserve. Once you've passed the checkpoint, you'll soon reach a large salt-lake where you can float in the warm salty water. The high salt content will keep you afloat, just make sure you don't shave that morning (that old saying of rubbing salt in a wound has never been more true) ... 

After this, slap on some of the mineral-rich mud, a free mud pack provided by Mother Nature. It needs to dry of course, so, perched in the little boat looking like you've just been dragged out of a swamp, you may feel a little embarrassed as you pass other tourists. Your humiliation will however be duly rewarded when you stop off at a small freshwater lake and wash off the mud to reveal peachy soft, rejuvenated skin. In the restaurant, you can freshen up with a drink before making the last 10km to San Felipe.
 

At around 4pm, you can see the fishermen returning with their catch. The sunset is one you won't easily forget, as is the taste of the freshly-caught lobster, ceviche or any other seafood dish you try here.

Driving distance: approx 4½ hours excluding rest breaks.