On the morning of Day 3 of your Mexico, Guatemala and Belize itinerary, you'll take the bus to Chichen Itza. The bus stop is close to the entrance of the Mayan ruins. However, bear the suspense just a little longer and first take a taxi to your hotel (US$ 2), a romantic hacienda surrounded by tropical gardens.

The starry sky is best admired from the ancient Mayan city. Every evening there's a light show in Chichen Itza. A combination ticket for the light show, headphones and admission for the next day can be purchased at the entrance for around US$ 15. Back at your hacienda, the silence will be interrupted only by the twittering of birds and the creaking of your hammock on the veranda. Bliss.
 

Today is completely free, so you'll have plenty of time to visit the surrounding area of Merida. If you've been hit by Mayan-fever after your visit to Chichen Itza, book an excursion to Uxzmal, a Mayan city built in 'Puuc' style. With its decorative statues, frills and tassels we considered it one of the most beautiful Mayan ruins. If you'd rather see some local wildlife, then head to the Gulf of Mexico for a boat trip through the Rio Celestun Nature Reserve, home to thousands of bright pink flamingos. Day trips can easily be arranged from your hotel in Merida and depart daily around 8am, returning around 6pm (prices begin at approx. US$45).

Around 9:15am this morning, you'll take the bus from Merida bus terminal to Campeche where you'll arrive around midday. You can take a taxi to your hotel in the historic colourful centre, which is within walking distance of all the main sights.

Campeche is a surprisingly interesting town. A tram from the main square takes you past the various sights including the fortress walls and bastions that once protected the city against pirates. Many of the original colonial buildings have recently been restored and they are beautifully lit at night.

At 8am this morning, you will be picked up at your hotel for the short trip to Palenque, probably the most impressive Mayan ruin in Mexico. Take your luggage with you as you won't be returning to the hotel. Palenque is hidden deep in the jungle and is one of the few Mayan cities where archaeologists were able to decipher details of the life of the ancient Mayans. You'll have plenty of time to wander through the ruins before the heat drives you back to the comfort of your air-conditioned minibus waiting by the entrance. Not much later you'll find yourself immersed in the refreshingly cool waterfalls of Agua Azul. If you're feeling surprisingly fit you can follow the path up to the top of the waterfalls, the view is amazing.

After this refreshing stop, your Mexico, Guatemala and Belize itinerary continues with another 5 hour drive to Chiapas province where you'll be dropped off at your posada in San Cristobal. The rooms at the posada are beautifully decorated.
 

San Cristobal, high in the Chiapas hills, is the centre of Mexican Indian culture and the car-free centre is filled with a cheerful mix of Mexicans, Indians and travellers. In the morning, wander up the colourful winding streets that slowly lead uphill through the city. The higher you get, the more beautiful the view: bright sunlight reflects on the green mountains against a background of threatening clouds. If you're feeling sporty you can go horse-back riding in the afternoon or go hiking in the hills around the city.

San Cristobal is pretty high up in the hills, so the evenings can get quite chilly so you'll need a sweater or a jacket. Or warm up with a tequila in one of the local bars, where you'll also often find live music playing.

 

This morning you will head out to Chamula for a half-day trip. As the village has a lot of rules and customs which you won't be aware of, we'll arranged this excursion with a local guide to give you a full understanding of the place. Chamula is a small mountain village where, after the arrival of the Spanish invaders old local customs were intertwined with Catholic customs. For example, in the local church you won't find a priest but a shaman seated on the ground, giving advice to the villagers.

In the afternoon back in San Cristobal, you'll have time to visit the local market where you can buy local produce, handmade clothes and souvenirs.
 

You'll leave early this morining from San Cristobal and head for the Guatemalan border. As you'll be re-entering Mexico later on your Mexico, Guatemala and Belize itinerary, ask for a (free) Multiple Entry form, then get your exit stamp and hand in the Mexican tourist pass that you received on arrival in Mexico. Together with your fellow bus travellers, you'll make your way to the Guatemalan border checkpoint, 4km further down the road (approx US$5). The time difference in Guatemala is 1 hour (earlier). Once you've crossed the border, you'll be met by our local representative and you'll continue on your way to Panajachel. The Guatemalan roads and buses are less comfortable than in Mexico, but there's plenty to see on the way to make you forget about that. The streets are filled with all kinds of activity: cobblers, noisy buses and Indian women in brightly coloured dresses carrying children on their back and bags on their heads. After a long but spectacular ride, you'll arrive at Lake Atitlán.

Lake Atitlan is famous for the many the volcanoes surrounding the lake, the fertile fields and the traditional Mayan villages. A walk around the lake will bring you the scent of flowers and fresh water, the sounds of the local village market, a view of a solitary boat gliding across the lake. It's beautiful wherever you turn. Today, you'll be able to spend 6 hours with your own local tour guide - his english may not be brilliant, so it might be a good idea to brush up on your spanish or sign language.

As the sun begins to set, at around 4 pm, the sky above the lake transforms into a kaleidoscope of colours. Then, around 5pm find a scenic spot to sit back with a drink and enjoy the view.

Try to plan your trip so that this (13th) day of your itinerary falls on a Thursday or a Sunday, so you can visit the colourful market at Chichicastenango. It's both a local and tourist market and the ideal place to pick up some souvenirs. 'Chichi', as it's known locally, has just 1000 inhabitants, but on market days over 20,000 Mayans from the surrounding area flock to the village to sell their wares.

In the afternoon, your Mexico, Guatemala and Belize itinerary continues with a shuttle bus to Antigua (Guatemala), the historic capital city and cultural heart of the country, where you'll spend two nights in a posada at the edge of the historic centre.

Rise and shine this morning in what many consider to be the prettiest town in Guatemala. Antigua is nestled in a valley between three volcanoes - the Fuego, Agua and the Acetanango. The original churches have been destroyed by earthquakes but the narrow cobbled streets are lined with small, brightly coloured houses and the occasional monastery, church or museum. Wandering through the little streets, you might suddenly find yourself in the middle of a patio or garden, or sit down in the shade of the jacaranda trees. For a quirky Antigua experience, why not catch a not-quite-legal movie in Bistro. Here, the rather entrepreneurial owner bought a couple of VCRs and TVs and the tapes are all illegal copies. Sitting in a dark bar at a table barely big enough to hold your plate you can enjoy a meal while you watch the Spanish (and English-subtitled) movie.

Today, you'll spend an entire day travelling by scheduled bus from Antigua to Flores (7.30am - 5.30pm with a change in Guatemala City). If you would prefer to fly instead, we can arrange this for you at an additional cost of approximately US$150.

Your hotel in Flores, where you'll spend your next two nights, is only a short walk from the bus stop and it is situated directly on Lake Peten Itza. The hotel terrace is a great place the watch the beautiful sunset over the lake. Although Flores is popular with tourists there's not much nightlife and the atmosphere will be surprisingly peaceful. After all, everyone will be up early the next morning to leave for the tour to Tikal.
 

You'll make a very early start this morning as your transfer from the hotel to Tikal leaves at 5am (roughly a 1½ hour journey). At the entrance, you'll stop to admire the scale model of the ancient temples. As the ruins slowly emerge from the vanishing morning mist you'll enter the complex. Bring plenty of water and a few snacks as you'll be walking for a few hours and there are no shops or restaurants in the dense jungle. However, all of the paths and trails leading deeper into the forest are all well-maintained. You could spend days wandering around the ruins and still not see everything, but by 2pm (after 6 hours of walking and climbing in the tropical heat), we think that you'll probably feel ready to leave. The shuttle bus will depart at 2.30pm, so you'll back to Flores just in time for the sunset.

Today you'll be heading for the third country on your travel itinerary - Belize. It's totally different to both Guatemala and Mexico, and you'll find that the Latino influences mix easily with the laid-back Caribbean way of life. Many of the Belizeans have afro hair, they speak Creole instead of Spanish, you'll hear reggae music and instead of salsa, and they dance the punta... so get ready to 'shake-your-behind'.

You'll be dropped off at the small harbour, where you can catch one of the regular boats to Caye Caulker (approx US$8). It's a thrilling 45-minute ride as you fly across the smooth turquoise sea, with the sun sparkling on the water. As Caye Caulker, comes into view you're greeted by the waving palm trees. Wonderful.
 

On Caye Caulker, the locals will be waiting for you with friendly curiosity. You'll stay in a white wooden villa close to the 'Split', so-called because this is the spot where the island was literally split in two during a hurricane. The villa has a wonderful garden with hammocks between the trees - perfect for chilling out.

Everything on Caye Caulker is within walking distance and the pace is totally laid back. The motto is "Go slow" and everywhere you go you're greeted with "Whazzup man" in a sunny Caribbean accent. After a walk across the island you can try the local cuisine... fresh fish.. of course. Where else can you get a plate of fresh lobster for around US$13?

You can have some fun in the sun over the next two days, swimming in the warm Caribbean waters and checking out the Split - the most happening place on the Caye. If you want a little more action, you can rent a canoe and head into the mangroves to look for wildlife and deserted beaches on the other (uninhabited) side of Caulker.

There are plenty of day trips on offer both in an around the water. At Shark Ray Alley, you can swim among the little nurse sharks and rays. Hol Chan Marine Reserve and Coral Garden are great for snorkelling and to the south of Belize City, you'll find a protected mangrove where you can see manatees in their natural habitat. If you're lucky enough to spot dolphins on the way the boat will stop to allow you jump overboard and snorkel among them. Magic.
 

Another interesting place to visit during your stay is Half Moon Caye - a small island nature reserve home to a large breeding colony of the endearingly named Red-Footed Boobies. From a platform, you can look right onto the nests of these cute but pompous looking birds. There are also several frigate birds, the males blowing up their bright red throats like a balloon.

If you're a diver, you may already have heard of the mysterious Blue Hole, where you can follow in the footsteps (or flippers) of Jacques Cousteau and descend to a depth of 42 metres. Blue Hole is a dark spot in the Caribbean Sea, and, once at the bottom, you'll be surrounded by stalagmites, stalactites and unsettlingly big reef sharks. This dive is for experienced divers only and reputedly one of the best diving spots in the world.

After breakfast (try the Fried Jacks), it's time to make your way to the harbour of Caye Caulker for the boat trip back to the mainland (US$8). Then, take a taxi to the bus station (approx US$4) to catch a bus to the Mexican border at Chetumal and then on to Playa del Carmen. You'll need to pay US$30 departure tax when leaving Belize, as well as approx US$3.50 conservation tax. In Playa del Carmen, you'll stay in a centrally located hotel. On your left, the pearly white beaches are 2 mins walk away, and on your right you'll find the Quinta Avenida (Fifth Avenue), a lively shopping street filled with restaurants, souvenir shops, cash machines and several bars. This will be your last stop on the Mexico, Guatemala and Belize itinerary.

Today, you can just stretch out and enjoy the sun, sea and sand in Playa del Carmen. Spend your day relaxing, snorkelling or diving along the barrier reefs or visit Xcaret eco theme park where you can float down the jungle river on a rubber tyre. If your budget allows, splash out on a once in a lifetime experience: swimming with dolphins (approx US$140).

In the evening, you can enjoy your last cold Mexican beer, tequila or fruit cocktail while the sun sets.

 

Day 22: Playa del Carmen - End of Mexico, Guatemala and Belize itinerary