Colours and Indians

If you have time to see more of Mexico than warm Yucatan beaches colonial cities and Mayan ruins, then head south from Campeche to San Cristobal de las Casas. Here, you'll find fresh green highlands dotted with Indian villages where the locals keep many of their age-old traditions alive to this day.

San Cristobal de las Casas, nestled in a cool green valley at 2100m altitude, is the regional heart of indigenous Indian and Zapatista culture. It's located at a crossroad of mountain roads which twist their way through the Chiapas province to the Guatemalan border. The colourful streets, historic plazas and friendly locals of San Cristobal give the town a really special atmosohere. During this trip you'll also head into the highlands to visit several Indian villages perched high in the hilltops. If you haven't already been there, the next logical destination will be the jungle at Palenque.

Duration	3 days / 2 nights Departs daily	Accommodation	Double room with ensuite facilitieis and a/c. Comfort level 3 (see accommodation).
Price	£65 per person - based on 2 people sharing	Includes	2 nights posada in San Cristobal de las Casas and excursion to Chamula
Transport	Rental car or scheduled bus	Excludes	All meals

Day 1: Arrival San Cristobal de las Casas

If you're travelling by car through Mexico, Campeche to San Cristobal de las Casas is a popular route. It means you'll cross through the state of Tabasco and though the route through lush green plantations is scenic enough it is a long drive; 6 hours to cross the state and then another long drive through the hills to San Cristobal de las Casas. That's why we suggest stopping off in Villahermosa for the night if you're travelling by rental car (see information bottom of the page).

If you're coming from Palenque or staying in Villahermosa it's about another 6 hours drive to San Cristobal de las Casas, the last 45 minutes of which slowly winding up through the hills. Drive carefully so you don't take the perilous turns too fast and anyway, that way you can take the time to enjoy the fantastic views.

Driving distance Villahermosa - San Cristobal de las Casas incl. stops: 6 hours

Campeche to San Cristobal - The city is surrounded by fields and forest

Campeche to San Cristobal - Streets in San Cristobal

When you arrive in San Cristobal de las Casas follow the colourful streets uphill to your posada. There's a car park around the corner and you'll find yourself in the middle of some of the prettiest streets in the city. Therer are hammocks and rocking chairs on the roof terrace and the rooms are all cheerfully decorated.

The central square, the shops, the bars and the market are all within walking distance. It's a great town to explore on foot, and it's well geared towards the tourist, without feeling tacky or superficial.

Besides being an important trading post, San Cristobal de las Casas is also known as the base of the 'Zapatistas', the group of local Chiapas rebels striving for an autonomous state and more rights for the indigenous Mayan people. As a visitor you won't notice anything of the previous unrest or road blocks but that doesn't mean to say the political tension has been diffused.

In the centre of San Cristobal de las Casas you'll see a friendly mix of Mexicans, Indians and travellers. Spend the day wandering round the colourful winding streets that slowly lead uphill through the city. The higher you get, the more beautiful the view: bright sunlight reflects on the green mountains against a background of threatening clouds. Because San Cristobal de las Casas is quite high up in the hills (2100 m) the evenings can get quite chilly so you'll need a sweater or a jacket. A tequila or margarita in one of the local bars usually does the trick too.

Campeche to San Cristobal - San Juan Chamula church

Day 2: San Cristobal de las Casas - excursion to Chamula

Your stay in San Cristobal de las Casas wouldn't be complete without a visit to San Juan Chamula, a small highland village home to the Tzotzil Indians. The villagers live by a curious set of customs dating back to the Spanish invaders, when the traditional local customs became entwined with Catholic practices. The village has some unfamiliar legislation which you won't be aware of (for example, you need to register when you visit) which is why we have arranged a tour with a local guide. That way you can gain a full understanding of this fascinating place. You'll meet the guide at 9am in the square in front of the big cathedral. Many travellers first do a tour of San Cristobal before visiting Chamula so in order to beat the crowds, drive to Chamula early.

The church of Chamula may look inconspicuous from the outside, inside it's a different story; instead of benches the floor is covered in pine needles which, together with the incense fill the church with an intoxicating aroma. People are seated on the ground around a shaman (priest) who on hearing the predicament calls on the higher spirits to offer the best advice. This could be sacrificing a chicken (or perhaps bottle of Coke; it makes you burp which allegedly purifies the body).

The Tzotzil are very shy and distant, unlike the inhabitants of Zinacantan where you will go next. It's quieter and the local families make a living selling their crafts, textiles or tortillas. They love showing you how they live. Around 2.30pm you'll be back in San Cristobal de las Casas, in time to visit the local market.

Campeche to San Cristobal - The VW Beetle is still a common sight in Mexico

Day 3: San Cristobal de las Casas - End of tour

San Cristobal is a great place to stick around for a while. The climate, the atmosphere, the walks, the sights, there's plenty to enjoy here, so stay an extra day and go horseriding or hiking in the hills around the city.

After San Cristobal de las Casas the most logical route is to drive to Palenque: it's a one-day drive from the mountains to the jungle. If you want to go head the other way to Oaxaca and Mexico City, check our module Colonial cultures overland.
You're not allowed to take your rental car across the border, but you could go to Guatemala seeing as you're almost there now anyway, although it does means paying a hefty drop-off fee of US$405 .

Sumidero Canyon

Further out of San Cristobal de las Casas is Sumidero Canyon, a spectacular canyon with towering 1000m walls. You can take a boat trip down the canyon and spot crocodiles, monkeys and various species of water birds. To get to Sumidero Canyon, it's a 1½ hour drive along a bumpy windy road to the village of Chiapa de Corzo, the departure point for the boat trips.
You can buy your ticket on the spot (approx US$8.-) and once the boat is full you'll set off. The boat (max 14 people) stops off at several breeding spots and a moss-covered 'Christmas Tree', and of course at the sighting of any crocodiles or monkeys. The trip lasts around 2 hours. Bring a warm sweater, it can get quite cold when the boats gather speed. You'll leave San Cristobal around 8am, returning around 1.30pm.

We heard mixed reviews on the boat trip from our travellers, though we personally really enjoyed it and saw plenty of wildlife in and around the water. Other travellers who visited later told us the water in the river was quite polluted. Though we haven't included it in this module because we want to give you the flexibility, it's easy to book the trip in the square or at the hotel if you're planning on going.

Campeche to San Cristobal - The spectacular Sumidero Canyon

Campeche to San Cristobal - Mayan statues

Villahermosa

Driving from Campeche to San Cristobal de las Casas is too far to do in one day but Villahermosa is roughly half way. The city doesn't boast any beautiful squares or monuments but it does have a great typically Mexican atmosphere and a lively shopping promenade close to your hotel. Driving time Campeche - Villahermosa: 6 hours

Before you set off on the second part of the drive to San Cristobal de las Casas the next morning (approx 6 hours drive), visit the "Parque de la Venta" in the centre of Villahermosa. The colossal stone heads date back to the Olmek period, which means they're older than all of the Mayan ruins in Mexico. You'll need about 2 hours to visit the park, which means you''ll need to leave for San Cristobal around 11am.

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